Field guide
Onsen Etiquette in Japan: How to Bathe Like a Local
Sinking into hot spring water while the steam drifts up and the leaves turn red outside is one of the best feelings a trip to Japan can give you. It can also be the moment visitors feel most nervous. You will be naked, among strangers, in a place full of quiet rules nobody explains.
Here is the good news: the rules are few, and they all come from one simple idea. The bath water is shared, so everyone keeps it clean and calm. Once you know that, every step makes sense. This guide walks you through a visit in the order you will actually do things, from the front door to the moment you slip into your yukata.
Momiji's tip: On your first visit, take your time and watch one or two regulars. You will pick up the rhythm in about a minute.
Want to see it first? Walk through it in 3D with Momiji.
The 30-second version
If you only remember five things, make it these:
- Check the tattoo rule before you go. It really does differ from place to place.
- Wash your whole body before getting in. The bath is for soaking, not cleaning.
- Keep your small towel out of the water. On your head or at the edge is fine.
- Tie up long hair so it stays out of the water.
- Dry off before returning to the changing room.
Before you go: the tattoo question
Tattoos are the one onsen topic worth checking before you leave your hotel. In the past, many baths turned away anyone with a tattoo. That is slowly changing, and today each place sets its own rule. Some baths welcome tattoos, some allow small ones, and some still say no (source: Japan Tourism Agency).
Onsen Big dealCheck the tattoo rule before you goSome onsen still refuse tattoos, so check first. Look for 'tattoo friendly' on the website, or just ask.
Open on the checklist →A few easy ways to find out:
- Look at the website. Many places state their tattoo policy on an English page or in the FAQ. Search for "tattoo friendly" along with the area you are visiting.
- Ask in advance. A short email or a question at the front desk is completely normal. Staff would much rather answer it before you arrive than at the bath door.
- Book a private bath. Many inns offer a private bath you can reserve for a set time, or rooms with their own bath. These are an easy option if you have tattoos, and also if you simply feel shy about bathing with strangers (source: Japan Tourism Agency).
If a place says no, please accept it with a smile. The staff are following their house rules, not judging you.
In the changing room
Most baths are split by gender, with separate entrances for men and women. The entrances are usually marked with curtains called noren and the characters 男 (men) and 女 (women). Curtain colors are a common hint, but they are not the same everywhere, so read the sign rather than the color. At some inns, the men's and women's baths swap sides at certain times of day, so check the sign again each time you go (source: MLIT Hokkaido).
Inside, you will find shelves with baskets or lockers. Here is the routine:
- Take your shoes off at the entrance if there is a shoe locker or a step up.
- Undress completely and put your clothes in a basket or locker. Swimsuits are not worn in a regular onsen.
- Keep valuables in a locker if there is one, or leave them in your room.
- Take only your small towel into the bath area. The big towel stays in the basket for later.
Phones and cameras stay in the changing room. In most places, taking photos in the changing room and the bath is strictly not allowed, because other people are undressed. If you want a picture of the view, ask the staff whether there is a time or spot where it is allowed.
Rules for children vary too. Many baths let young children go in with a parent of either gender up to a certain age, but the age differs, so check the rules at the entrance (source: MHLW).
Wash first, soak second
This is the big one. In Japan, you never get into the bath to get clean. You get clean first, and then you get in.
Onsen Big dealWash your whole body before getting inSit at the shower stools and scrub first. The bath is for soaking, not cleaning.
Open on the checklist →Along the wall of the bath area, you will see a row of low stools, small buckets, taps and showers. Soap and shampoo are often provided at onsen and inns, but check.
- Sit down on a stool. Washing is done seated, so you don't splash the person next to you.
- Rinse the stool and, if you like, the space in front of you.
- Wash your whole body and your hair with soap, then rinse off completely. No suds should go into the bath.
- Rinse the stool and bucket when you finish, and put them back neatly for the next person.
Many people also pour a few scoops of bath water over themselves before getting in. This is called kakeyu (かけ湯). It rinses you once more and lets your body get used to the heat. Start at your feet and work up.
In the bath: the towel, your hair, and a quiet voice
Now for the best part. Step in slowly. The water can be hotter than you expect.
Onsen Big dealKeep your small towel out of the waterFold it on your head or leave it at the edge. Towels in the bath are seen as dirty.
Open on the checklist →Your small towel has a place to go, and it isn't the water. Fold it and rest it on your head, as many locals do, or leave it on the edge of the bath. Towels carry soap and dirt into the shared water, so they stay out, even right after washing.
Onsen Tie up long hairHair touching the water bothers other bathers.
Open on the checklist →Long hair should be tied up or clipped so it stays out of the water. A simple hair tie or a clip is all you need.
A few more small courtesies:
- Don't swim or dive under. Even in a big, empty bath, it is a place for soaking, not swimming. Keep your head above the water.
- Keep your voice low. Quiet chatting is fine. Loud talk and laughter carry far in a tiled room.
- Don't wash clothes or anything else in the bath, and don't pour soap or shampoo into it.
- Give people space. Slide in gently instead of splashing, and leave room for others.
Momiji's tip: If you are not sure whether something is okay, look around. If nobody else is doing it, it is probably best not to.
Dry off before the changing room
When you are ready to get out, pause before you open the door to the changing room.
Onsen Dry off before returning to the changing roomWipe down with your small towel so the floor stays dry.
Open on the checklist →Wipe yourself down with your small towel, wringing it out as you go, so you don't drip all over the changing room floor. Then step out and use your big towel. Many people wipe off with a towel instead of rinsing, so the minerals stay on the skin. If your skin is sensitive, or the water is strong, rinsing off is fine (source: Ministry of the Environment).
Back in the changing room, you will usually find hair dryers and mirrors. Wipe up any water you leave on the counter.
After the bath: yukata and ryokan life
At a ryokan (a traditional inn), the bath is part of a slower, gentler way of spending the evening. Your room will usually have a yukata, a light cotton robe, ready for you.
Homes & inns Big dealWear the yukata left side over rightRight over left is how the deceased are dressed.
Open on the checklist →The one rule that really matters: wrap the left side over the right. Right over left is how the deceased are dressed, so it is worth getting right. Tie the sash around your waist, and you are done.
In many inns, guests wear their yukata to walk to the bath, to dinner and around the building. Some inns ask guests to change before entering the lobby or the dining room, so check the house guide in your room. A few more small things:
- Slippers come off on tatami. Walk on the straw mats in socks or bare feet.
- Bath hours are limited. Some inns close the big bath late at night for cleaning and open it again early in the morning. The times are in the guide.
For more on shoes, slippers and staying at an inn, see the checklist cards for the genkan and tatami.
Soak safely: a few gentle precautions
Hot water is relaxing, but it is also hard work for the body. These are general tips, not medical advice. If you have a health condition or are pregnant, check with your doctor before you travel.
- Don't stay in too long. Soak for a short while, get out to cool down, then go back in if you like. Several short soaks feel better than one long one.
- Skip the bath after drinking alcohol. Wait until later, or soak the next morning instead.
- Drink water before and after your bath (source: Ministry of the Environment).
- Stand up slowly. Getting out of hot water too fast can make some people feel dizzy (source: Consumer Affairs Agency).
- Read the notice board. Many onsen post bathing precautions near the entrance. They are worth a quick look (source: Ministry of the Environment).
Momiji's tip: If you start to feel lightheaded, get out, sit somewhere cool and sip some water. The bath will still be there later.
Onsen vs sento: what changes
You will hear two words for public baths, and the manners are almost the same.
Onsen are baths that use water from a natural hot spring. Japan has a law that sets which spring water can be called an onsen (source: Ministry of the Environment). You will find them at resort towns, in the countryside and at many ryokan, often with outdoor baths called rotenburo.
Sento are neighborhood public baths, built for daily life in the city. They heat ordinary water, and some use hot spring water (source: MHLW).
What changes at a sento:
- Bring your own things. Soap, shampoo and towels are often not included. You can usually buy or rent them at the counter.
- Pay at the entrance, at a front desk or a ticket machine.
- The same core rules apply. Wash first, keep your towel out of the water, dry off before the changing room.
Quick questions
Do I have to be completely naked? Yes, in a regular gender-separated bath. Your small towel can cover you as you walk around, but it stays out of the water. A few places have mixed baths with their own rules on what to wear, so read the sign there.
I'm shy. Is that okay? Completely. Nobody stares, and most people are focused on relaxing. A private bath is also a lovely option.
Can I bring a drink into the bath? In many places, no. Check the sign, and have a drink after you get out.
What if I make a mistake? A quick sumimasen (excuse me, sorry) and a smile go a long way. People know visitors are learning.
When rules vary by place
Every bath has its own house rules, and they usually win over any guide, this one included. The things most likely to differ:
- Tattoos: welcome, allowed if small, or not allowed at all.
- Children: the age at which they must use the bath for their own gender.
- Photos: usually not allowed inside; some places allow photos of the outdoor view at set times.
- Towels and soap: included at many onsen and inns, often extra at sento.
- Men's and women's sides: fixed at most places, swapped by time at some inns.
When in doubt, check the rules at the entrance or ask the staff. A short question is always welcome.
Before you go
All five onsen manners live on our checklist. Tap Onsen to see just those cards, and tick them off as you learn them. If you are new to Japan, our guide to Japanese etiquette for first-time visitors covers the 30 small manners that matter most, place by place.
Short Momiji videos for each step are on the way on our YouTube channel, Small Things, Japan.
Wash first, soak slowly, and enjoy the steam. It is one of the best parts of Japan.